Breaking through the normative confines of fashion, the Thom Browne Resort 2024 (Cruise 2024) collection serves as a testament to the designer’s ceaseless ingenuity and irrepressible artistic vision. Often recognized for his enigmatic style and daring proportions, Browne yet again captivates the fashion world with his exquisite tailoring, playful detailing and refreshing color palette.
Stepping into the new season, Browne sought to breathe life into his collection through a nuanced color evolution. Following the vibrancy of his previous fall collection that was awash with tweeds and a plethora of hues, Browne hinted at a “refreshing” journey of colors for this new line-up. Starting with soothing grays, the collection gracefully transitions into the subtle charm of pastels and collegiate tones, finally resting on the timeless elegance of black-and-white tuxedo shades. “There is an infusion of some color“, Browne revealed, as he drew attention to the serene tonal evolution of the collection.
Tailoring, a cornerstone of Browne’s artistry, once again demonstrated its indomitable presence in the Resort 2024 collection. The designer’s opening look, a crisp manifestation of his layered aesthetic, showcased an exaggerated sportcoat, sleeves with intricate pin-tuck details, and expanded hemlines – striking a perfect balance between audacity and grace. Contrasting lengths further highlighted Browne’s playful exploration of proportions, with the juxtaposition of shorter, babydoll dresses and longer, dramatic silhouettes. Browne shared, “If I’m going to do something short, I’m going to do it really short“, pointing at a breathtakingly sequined black formal dress. The dress was strikingly feminine, seductive, yet subtly so, marked by the designer’s characteristic exaggerated sleeve, an element that “makes it truly mine“, Browne added.
The collection sparkled with unique fabric manipulations. Some garments dazzled in tonal sequins, intricate embroideries, and a delightful surprise of silver metallic hues. Browne further experimented with classic gray wools, cashmeres, and his signature prepster layers such as cricket sweaters and tipping jackets. Moreover, an assortment of tweeds found their way into the collection, particularly an innovative, standout tweed blend that interwove the designer’s label.
Thom Browne’s Resort 2024 collection also bears a testimony to his devotion to detail. With an emphasis on finely finished internal constructions, Browne inverted several pieces, showcasing the inside-out beauty of jackets, skirts, and trousers. Browne suggested that such construction was “the most important and the most fashionable” aspect of his designs. He emphasized, “When you see the inside of garments that are done as beautifully as they are on the outside, that for me is what fashion should be“. His attention to the inside of the garments was a nod to the craftsmanship that goes into each piece, a testament to the importance of tailoring in his collections.
The Thom Browne Resort 2024 collection breaks new ground, marrying tradition with innovation, and capturing the spirit of ‘a little bit of a refresh from fall’ with each detail and silhouette. Be it the whimsical lamb handbags or the intricate inside-out constructions, the collection serves as an embodiment of the designer’s knack for blending eccentricity with elegance. This bold new collection has certainly set the stage for the future of bespoke tailoring in women’s fashion, leaving us excitedly awaiting Browne’s next leap forward.
Read more: Mika in Valentino on D Lui la Repubblica June 10th, 2023 by Daniel Riera
