To stage his Spring/Summer 2023 collection for Tod’s, which paid homage to the 90s minimalism, Walter Chiapponi chose the vast spaces of the Pirelli HangarBicocca, a contemporary art venue on the outskirts of Milan.
Winding between the seven massive, slightly askew concrete towers – an imposing post-apocalyptic permanent installation by German artist Anselm Kiefer – models – the first look was worn by former French First Lady Carla Bruni and the last look by Naomi Campbell – embodied perfection in simplicity. “The nineties is the era I grew up in. I liked its minimalism, sharp lines and simplicity. So no decoration”, Chiapponi explained.
Whether it was a leather coat with oversized sleeves, a leather shirt-dress buttoned down in the center to the knees or the series of dresses in nude or caramel stretch glove leather, everything exuded softness and fluidity, carried by a very chic and current simplicity. “As much as I like minimalism, I wanted to express a more sensual feel, balancing luxury with essentiality, and twisting masculine codes into a more blurred, softer identity”, said Chiapponi.