From the marbled halls of Milan to the star-studded stages of Los Angeles, Versace has been synonymous with unabashed glamour and timeless elegance. But change is in the air, not just in the business landscape with Capri Holdings merging with Tapestry but also in the creative direction of the iconic brand. Spring/Summer 2024 sees Versace taking a detour from its sultry signature and moving towards a refreshing, youthful breeze.
Donatella Versace, the maven behind the brand, channels a fresh perspective in this collection. Gone are the intensely body-con silhouettes that once ruled the runway. Instead, a gentle gust of pastel checkerboard duchesse satin suits, rounded lady coats, and flat ballerina shoes makes its presence felt. These changes are subtly underlined with the brand’s revisit to tailoring, continuing the love affair with the famed Versace jacket, albeit in newer avatars. The boxy outlines of this season are meticulously crafted to ensure freedom of movement, marrying both style and comfort.
The collection’s color palette and checks aim to bring forth freshness and contemporaneity. The image of a strong, empowered woman retains its essence, now intertwined with a dash of sweet tenderness. A glance towards the mood board reveals the influence of the autumn 1995 Versace and Spring/Summer 1995 Atelier Versace collections. One couldn’t help but notice a nod to Claudia Schiffer donning a checkerboard ensemble. This motif, which has occasionally mirrored Louis Vuitton’s Damier check, has been a Versace staple since its debut in 1992.
However, the checkerboard infusion this season seemed slightly off-track from Versace’s core DNA, aligning more with the industry’s tilt towards the youthful appeal of shorter hemlines. But then, familiarity makes a comeback with the Medusa-patterned silks morphed into sets for both genders. Lace embroidered metal mesh slip dresses find their place too, with a special highlight being Schiffer gracing the runway in a delicate pale yellow ensemble.
The menswear exudes boldness with broad-shouldered “Prince jackets,” reminiscent of the iconic outfits crafted for the late pop legend’s 1991 tour. This assertive style is what we’ve come to associate and cherish from Versace.
This season, Versace shifts from conventional dressing norms. The grandeur of evening gowns gets replaced with printed silk twill pajamas, embellished twin sets, and almost ethereal jeans, adorned with pearls and crystals. It’s a blend of past and present, and as always, Versace finds a way to remain at the pinnacle of fashion evolution.