Yohji Yamamoto recently showcased his latest collection in a dreamy fashion show. The event was filled with all of his signature roomy shapes and deconstructed silhouettes, reflecting his thoughts about travelers and exiles meandering between centuries and continents.
The show opened with a personal touch, as the designer himself sang Leonard Cohen’s “I’m Your Man” on the soundtrack. This song, which addresses the question of what a woman wants, symbolizes Yamamoto’s flexible approach to his designs. He has been in the fashion industry for over four decades and has a reputation for his resolute approach to his output.
This collection was a new version of a familiar story, with the designer working almost exclusively in the color black, with red and white accents. At a time when fashion is embracing deconstruction, Yamamoto stands out with his conviction and unique approach.
From bias-cut shirt dresses fixed with sculpted leather pieces to skirts that unraveled into raw-edged flaps, the collection was a masterclass in reducing and reusing excess materials.
Yamamoto’s pursuit of imperfect beauty was evident in the collection, from the spots painted onto models’ faces to the asymmetrical and layered clothing. The final looks, trimmed with beads, had a simple appeal. The backs of several jackets were transformed into canvases for painterly silk screens, while the embroidery on a zip-front shirt showcased Yamamoto himself, with his trademark hat and guitar.
The final song on the soundtrack was in Japanese, and according to a friendly colleague, it was a mixed feeling song about a man getting old, who is sad but also content and happy with what he has achieved. It was a bittersweet melody that reflected the designer’s journey and his unwavering commitment to his craft.