In the bustling atmosphere of anticipation, the eager crowd at Via Ventura yearned for the revelation of the 1017 Alyx 9SM Spring/Summer 2024 collection. When the first models finally strutted onto the runway, 45 minutes behind schedule, the audience was promptly rewarded for their patience with an awe-inspiring vision of fashion’s future.
This collection was an amalgamation of strength and daintiness, underlined by stark contrasts and a utilitarian aesthetic. The tailored peak lapel jackets and black topcoat, featuring stylishly angled, popper-fastened cargo pockets and chain-edged collars, created a commanding first impression. Echoing an industrial vibe, raw-edged sleeveless jackets in treated canvas sported grommets and zips, amplified by the crossbar-free “A” logos, reinforcing the brand’s visual identity.
Playing with contrasts, these bold pieces were juxtaposed with the collection’s more graceful elements. The incorporation of a “ballet slipper” shoe style, developed collaboratively with Vibram, injected a sense of delicate sophistication. These shoes stood out in contrast to the hefty molded sole boots, reminiscent of the signature Australian Ugg design, presented in a variety of finishes including a daring leopard print.
The second half of the show made room for more experimentation, presenting a Capri-inspired pant that exuded both chic and laid-back vibes. Matthew M. Williams, the creative maestro behind the collection, drew inspiration from Wolfgang Tillmans’ photograph entitled Gedser. “I just wanted it to be very pure. Just like looks that I would wear. Very direct, not over-styled, and immediate”, Williams shared, revealing his personal touch in the collection’s unique aesthetic.
Additional standout pieces were multi-pocket shorts, liner gilets, and oversized jackets with rollercoaster buckles, all wrapped in luxurious leather. Garment-dyed denim created an intriguing greasy-effect, cut into full-volume separates, adding an intriguing dimension to the collection. A new take on tracksuit silhouettes was evident, with full-armed canvas sweatshirts and false tee-sleeve over long sleeve top paired with those captivating Capris.
The 1017 Alyx 9SM Spring/Summer 2024 collection signifies a journey of bold exploration. Williams and his design director Lee Roach artfully bent the rules of traditional work, street, and eveningwear, offering a subtly distorted spring wardrobe that compels us to rethink our style narratives. The collection underlines the brand’s knack for innovation, painting a vivid image of the future of fashion with its audacious, yet beautifully balanced, contrasts.
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