Acne Studios’ Fall/Winter 2023 collection, designed by Jonny Johansson, is a commentary on toxic masculinity and the stereotypes associated with it. The collection is themed around the cave dweller, an ironic take on the ultimate he-man.
Johansson believes that the young men of today don’t carry the same baggage that he does, and this is reflected in the way they dress. He mentioned that during the casting for last season, the boys came with handbags and the girls came with skateboards, indicating that these gender-nonconforming trends are no longer just a fashion fad.
The collection features a mix of masculine and feminine elements, with dirty jeans and oversize jackets paired with corset tops and spiral-laced pants. Lacy underwear peeks out from the waistband of black biker pants and baggy pinstriped slacks, creating a bold statement. Tie-dyed, washed and bleached fabrics, reminiscent of cave walls, are used throughout the collection, adding a rugged and raw feel.
In addition to the fashion, Johansson also adds his take on soccer’s stranglehold on the male psyche by using snug singlets paired with calf socks.
Johansson said: “I don’t feel comfortable with a man that acts like a ‘real man,’ but I feel very comfortable with the aesthetic. It’s something that feels like home“. The collection challenges traditional masculine stereotypes and encourages self-expression and individuality.