The various long periods of lock-down gave to Jonny Johansson, the founder and creative director of Acne Studios, more time to dream and deepen his pragmatic experimentation. This time, it was his subconscious that came to dictate his inspirations.
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“This is a very personal collection for me, drawing on my subconscious memories of counterculture, especially in music”, said Johansson. “I like the contrast between the hard authority of the uniform, and the softness of those who seek another way to live”.
However, there were no famous names in this collection. Jonny Johansson drew in his nostalgic memories to give birth to looks with elongated and relaxed shapes, and decorative patterns with strong 70s feelings.
“I love the juxtaposition between hard uniforms and pieces that are softer or more feminine”, Jonny Johansson said in the show notes. “I have such respect for traditional menswear, but I always think there’s something about it that needs to be questioned and changed. [For instance,] I love the tailored pieces that at first look super normal, then you realize there’s the sheen of Lurex in it, like a wool shorts suit, or flared tailored pants with a pinstripe of Lurex”.
The most notable looks included an oversized bomber jacket with fertility symbols embroidered on the chest, multi-colored patchwork pants, an oversized powder blue blazer paired with matching high waisted shorts, yellow snakeskin patterned pants and waistcoat, pink ruffled shirts or giant knit cardigans.
The new combat boots made strong nods to military uniforms, giving sharpness and structure to the collection, while the range of accessories including futuristic glasses, pearl necklaces, earrings, and fertility symbol necklaces further emphasized the notion of freedom and fluidity.
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