Moschino, embarks on an exciting new chapter with the appointment of Adrian Appiolaza as Creative director, overseeing the womenswear, menswear and accessories collections and reporting to Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of parent company Aeffe SpA. With his new role at Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza steps into the shoes of the late Italian designer Davide Renne, who passed away unexpectedly in November, just ten days into his tenure.
Born in Buenos Aires in 1972, Appiolaza’s journey in fashion is as varied as it is impressive. Before joining Moschino, he honed his skills at some of the most prestigious fashion houses. His decade-long stint as women’s womenswear design director at Loewe under the guidance of Jonathan Anderson and his tenure at Chloé with Clare Waight Keller have been instrumental in shaping his design philosophy.
Appiolaza’s first collection for Moschino will debut on February 22nd at the Museo della Permanente during Milan Fashion Week for the fall womenswear season. This venue has great significance for Moschino, as it hosted the brand’s exhibition “Moschino – X anni di Kaos! 1983-1993” in 1993 to celebrate its first decade.
Massimo Ferretti, Executive Chairman of Aeffe SpA, Moschino’s parent company, expressed his enthusiasm for Appiolaza’s appointment. “His experience, energy and creativity are unique and boundless. He is not just a designer, but also a passionate collector, which is something making him very respectful of the heritage of brands. I really believe he will be able to translate Franco Moschino’s DNA into a very contemporary, captivating language giving a new, fresh face to Moschino.”
Appiolaza approaches his role with respect for Franco Moschino’s legacy and the House’s recent history. He wants to focus on the clothes, drawing from Moschino’s rich archives but filtering them through his unique vision. “It’s a journey that will draw heavily from its extensive archive, a veritable gold mine, but filtered through my own imagination,” Appiolaza shared.
His formative years, spent in his grandmother’s dressmaking shop and fueled by a passion for English music, particularly Manchester’s thriving music scene, propelled him into the fashion world. This eclectic background is reflected in his approach to design, which combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation.
Appiolaza’s journey in fashion design has been marked by significant collaborations and mentorships. He credits Phoebe Philo with changing his career trajectory by inviting him to work at Chloé after his graduation collection. “It was Phoebe Philo who changed the course of my career,” Appiolaza said in a note. While working as a junior designer at Alexander McQueen and Miguel Adrover at the turn of the millennium, the young Appialoza was also enrolled at London’s Central Saint Martins. He added: “She saw the collection with which I graduated and invited me to join her at Chloé in 2002.’’ Appiolaza’s rise to the top of a major fashion house has been expected for some time, given his extensive and notable background in the industry. He recently completed a decade-long tenure at Loewe as design director of ready-to-wear. Prior to that, he spent two years at Chloé under Clare Waight Keller, a period that is often underappreciated. This was followed by two years at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, and four years at Miu Miu under Miuccia Prada, which he joined in 2006.
A notable aspect of Appiolaza’s career is his role as a collector of garments by influential designers, including Moschino. “Having access today to these memories; walking through these corridors overflowing with history just waiting to be heard; touching clothes that I had only seen in magazines has been invaluable and will serve as a compass in the journey I have just begun,” he said.
Faced with the challenge of running a smaller company like Aeffe in comparison to his previous roles at LVMH and Richemont, his wealthy former employers, Appiolaza seems poised to infuse Moschino with a blend of innovation and reverence for its storied past.