Fashion mavericks often march to their own drumbeat, and Alexander Wang is no exception. While his absence from the official New York Fashion Week calendar sent shudders through the industry, fear not, Wang devotees! The designer has been quietly making waves with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, unveiled not on a runway, but within the confines of his stunning new South Street Seaport headquarters.
Wang’s relocation from Chinatown to this expansive, light-filled space marks a symbolic shift. Gone are the dimly lit, intimate environs; instead, panoramic views of the Brooklyn Bridge bathe the showroom in natural light, reflecting the collection’s focus on urban energy. Lush black calla lilies and curated playlists set the mood, while Byredo candles evoke a sense of luxurious serenity. This is the “concrete jungle” reimagined – raw, vibrant, and undeniably cool.
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The clothes themselves embody this ethos. Wang plays with the concept of “new erogenous zones,” introducing vertical slits to loose-fitting pants – a trend echoing across the industry with similar interpretations by Phoebe Philo and Daniel Lee at Burberry. Here, the slits offer glimpses of skin, catering to a youthful, body-confident clientele. Wang, a pioneer of exposed underwear, takes it further with crocheted leather bra tops and a bomber-bra-top hybrid – lingerie seamlessly transitioning into outerwear.
Further blurring the lines, Wang introduces water-safe denim swimwear – think micro bikinis, cropped jean jackets, and jeggings-style shorts – designed for a seamless transition from beach to bar. It’s functional, sexy, and eminently Wang.
But will the designer grace the New York catwalk again? With a 20th anniversary looming, whispers of a grand return are swirling. While Wang remains coy, he hints at an “activation” coinciding with the pre-fall launch. In a fashion landscape obsessed with reinvention, this client-centric approach might be just the right fit. After all, a stroll through downtown on any summer weekend reveals a thriving scene of young, body-positive individuals – Wang’s ideal customer base.
Read more: Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2024
©Photo: Alexander Wang
