This season, Andreas Kronthaler reimagines fashion with a playful and historical twist for the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Kronthaler, continuing the legacy of the iconic Vivienne Westwood, merges Renaissance influence with modern flair, challenging conventional perceptions of elegance and style.
The collection showcases a daring integration of historical and sportive elements, notably the codpiece, a Renaissance staple, reenvisioned as a modern accessory. Kronthaler’s fascination with late Renaissance attire, inspired by a Giovanni Battista Moroni exhibition, breathes life into this line. He intertwines this with sports protection gear, highlighting the codpiece’s historical and contemporary relevance.
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Kronthaler’s approach to fashion is not merely a nod to the past but a bold statement on current fashion norms. The collection features pronounced breastplate details and strap-ons reminiscent of Renaissance codpieces, worn conspicuously outside trousers, pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear. This audacious reinterpretation underlines the designer’s intent to infuse fun and historical homage into contemporary fashion.
The use of black, particularly in evening wear, pays homage to the 1600s trend, demonstrating the color’s timeless elegance and versatility. Kronthaler explains, “We love this color. It’s very convenient but at the same time the most elegant of all colors,” affirming black’s enduring appeal in fashion.
Moreover, the collection reflects Kronthaler’s and Westwood’s shared interest in historical dress, evident in the homage to Il Tagliapanni – a figure from Moroni’s works – and the adaptation of historical patterns into modern designs. From razor-sliced doublets to thigh-high cavalier boots, each piece narrates a story of time-traveled elegance.
The show also featured a memorable appearance by Sam Smith, who embodied the collection’s spirit of defiance and self-expression. Wearing a mini-kilt and wielding a gnarled staff, Smith’s presence underscored the collection’s challenge to conventional gender norms and celebrated individuality.
Read more: Rabanne Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week
©Photo: Vivienne Westwood
