Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his debut as the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, showcasing his intention to honor the label’s founder while putting his own spin on things. The show started with a black ensemble and ended with a white one, both featuring a leather feather headpiece and a maxi skirt with a bias cut, symbolizing de Saint Sernin’s desire to spread his wings.
To get a better understanding of the house and its founder, de Saint Sernin delved into the archives and tried on 80 pieces from the collections. He also had the blessing of the house founder, who is friends with the new owner and encouraged him to “do the best you can do“.
The collection was highlighted by the men’s suits, styled in the classic Demeulemeester way, and the bias-cut silk skirts paired with shearling shrugs and capelets. One skirt was made from chiffon to emphasize its draping. The models also walked the runway with their arms crossed over their bare chests, adding a gentle touch to the show.
While de Saint Sernin’s first collection shows potential, it also presents opportunities for improvement. The collection could have included more innovative takes on Demeulemeester’s signature pieces, such as a reimagined tank top or jackets and coats for the fall season. Additionally, the fluidity concept in the collection could have been emphasized even further by incorporating low-heeled boots for both male and female models.