Ann Demeulemeester Fall-Winter 2024 - Paris Fashion Week

Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week

Stefano Gallici's second Ann Demeulemeester collection balanced brand heritage with his own vision. Tailoring met biker jackets, while lace and leather added a touch of rock and roll.
March 5, 2024
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Stefano Gallici’s sophomore effort for Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week presented a fascinating evolution from his respectful debut. While acknowledging the label’s rich history, Gallici isn’t afraid to carve his own path.

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Ann has been so many things,” Gallici said, referencing the brand’s founder. He likened his approach to navigating a vast forest, drawing inspiration from the house’s archives while forging his distinct vision. This season saw a blend of the familiar – tailored trousers, waistcoats – with intriguing twists: leather Perfectos, structured outerwear, and a touch of Stevie Nicks-inspired lace and leather.

The Fall/Winter 2024 collection pulsed with a raw energy. Biker jackets juxtaposed with fluid georgette dresses and lingerie elements created a compelling tension. Greatcoats boasted hand-painted shearling collars for a lived-in effect, while distressed sweaters and knit dresses added a touch of grit. The raw-edged beauty continued in silk slipdresses adorned with gauzy lace and thorn embroidery.

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While some looks felt familiar, Gallici’s ability to infuse them with his own perspective was undeniable. Pinstripe suits were subtly deconstructed, and crinkled velvet with a shiny finish offered a luxurious update on a classic material.

Gallici’s self-described “ambivalence of determination and fragility” resonated throughout the collection. It’s a testament to his talent that he can navigate the complexities of such a legacy while carving a path forward for Ann Demeulemeester.

Read more: Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week

©Photo: Ann Demeulemeester