Stefano Gallici’s sophomore effort for Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week presented a fascinating evolution from his respectful debut. While acknowledging the label’s rich history, Gallici isn’t afraid to carve his own path.
“Ann has been so many things,” Gallici said, referencing the brand’s founder. He likened his approach to navigating a vast forest, drawing inspiration from the house’s archives while forging his distinct vision. This season saw a blend of the familiar – tailored trousers, waistcoats – with intriguing twists: leather Perfectos, structured outerwear, and a touch of Stevie Nicks-inspired lace and leather.
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection pulsed with a raw energy. Biker jackets juxtaposed with fluid georgette dresses and lingerie elements created a compelling tension. Greatcoats boasted hand-painted shearling collars for a lived-in effect, while distressed sweaters and knit dresses added a touch of grit. The raw-edged beauty continued in silk slipdresses adorned with gauzy lace and thorn embroidery.
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While some looks felt familiar, Gallici’s ability to infuse them with his own perspective was undeniable. Pinstripe suits were subtly deconstructed, and crinkled velvet with a shiny finish offered a luxurious update on a classic material.
Gallici’s self-described “ambivalence of determination and fragility” resonated throughout the collection. It’s a testament to his talent that he can navigate the complexities of such a legacy while carving a path forward for Ann Demeulemeester.
Read more: Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week
©Photo: Ann Demeulemeester
