The rumble of trains and industrial echoes set a melancholic yet fierce ambiance as Stefano Gallici unveiled his first collection for Spring/Summer 2024, marking his commencement as the Creative director of Ann Demeulemeester. With the legacy of the brand pulsating in the air and the memories of former directors lingering, Gallici embarked upon his journey, illustrating a divergence in aesthetic ideology while preserving the soul of the renowned fashion house.
Gallici’s emergence was heralded by a departure from the glam seductiveness associated with Ludovic de Saint Sernin. He ventured into a realm where darker and grittier sensuality reigned, elegantly juxtaposing the ethereal subtleness of yesteryears. Soft layering and transparencies usurped bare skin, and the iconic teeny-tiny feather tops were replaced by heavy leather belting, echoing a transition from vulnerability to assertiveness.
The Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2024 collection bore witness to an elongated silhouette that draped the models with an aura of mystique. Stefano Gallici’s meticulous attention to androgynous tailoring and signature white shirts with extending cuffs paid homage to the brand’s roots. Pops of colors, reminiscent of archival shows, punctuated the ensembles, bridging the gap between the past and present.
Stefano Gallici demonstrated adeptness in weaving utility with elegance. Pocketed jackets and cargo pants converged with satin long dresses and short frocks adorned with leather belt detailing. The juxtaposition bore testament to his ability to embrace the brand’s iconic elements while imprinting his unique mark.
Yet, amidst the grandeur and theatrical presentations, the collection subtly echoed a longing for a poetic touch, a lyrical infusion that would elevate the clothing to celestial realms. Gallici, having been ensconced in the Ann Demeulemeester world since 2020, appeared reticent, concealing his creative trajectory and leaving spectators in anticipation.
Stefano Gallici’s debut was silent but articulate, and his Instagram manifesto revealed a devotion to boundless freedom, the essence of Ann Demeulemeester’s philosophy. Clarity remained elusive, definitions considered confining, promising a future where predictability is scorned and innovation revered.
The evening, marred slightly by the delayed commencement and the remote location, was ultimately a dance of shadows and lights. The enigmatic nature of Gallici’s inaugural presentation for Spring/Summer 2024 signaled the dawn of an era where reverence for tradition amalgamates with the courageous pursuit of the undefined, reaffirming Ann Demeulemeester’s position as a harbinger of poetic rebellion in the sartorial world.
©Photo: Ann Demeulemeester