Previously navigating mostly behind the scenes, Matthieu Blazy – the 35-year-old Belgian interned at Balenciaga, before honing his skills later at Raf Simons, Maison Margiela Artisanal, Celine and Calvin Klein – finally finds himself in the spotlight when he became Bottega Veneta’s new creative director in November 2021, following the abrupt departure of Daniel Lee.
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The Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2022 season marks Matthieu Blazy’s first steps on the catwalk, bringing the brand back to Milan after three traveling shows initiated by Daniel Lee in London, Berlin and Detroit.
For this highly anticipated debut, Blazy sees two options: a clean break from the past or continue what Lee has accomplished in recent years at the helm of a brand as cherished and mythologised as Bottega Veneta. For Blazy, the second option is the best choice, while bringing the brand back to basics. “Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic because it is a leather goods company”, said the new creative director. “Because it specializes in bags it is about movement, of going somewhere; there is fundamentally an idea of craft in motion. It is style over fashion in its timelessness. That is part of its quiet power”.
Throughout the collection, the pieces all expressed a sense of movement. Everything seems effortlessly worn, floating easily down the runway.
It started not just with Bottega’s signature intrecciato, the leather weave that made the house’s name, in the form of over-the-knee boots, bags, skirts, loafers and belts, but also with a white shirt and jeans. That they just happened to be made from leather made to look like denim, and thus not so basic at all, set the tone.
Then there was a whole series of leather pieces, a real doctrine for the brand of the kering group, often mixed with chunky sweaters while outerwear also multiplied on the runway with double-breasted topcoats generously proportioned and leather trench coats boasting demonstrative closures.
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