Brandon Maxwell‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection unfolded like a personal narrative, swapping the intimate Chinatown gallery of the previous season for the expansive Brooklyn Navy Yard’s Duggal Greenhouse. This shift in venue mirrored a change within the designer himself, one fueled by a transformative trip to the American Southwest.
Instead of the expected thematic pronouncements, Maxwell opted for introspective vulnerability, exposing his “soft underbelly” through his garments. The show’s all-white space, bathed in sunlight, hinted at a newfound lightness, a departure from the darker introspection of the previous season.
Opening with a diaphanous white halter gown, Maxwell acknowledged the past while acknowledging the future. The “Wizard of Oz“-inspired red pump peeked out playfully, a thread connecting the old and the new.
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The vastness of the Southwest resonated in Maxwell’s designs. Waxed cotton barn jackets, a first for his runway, whispered of Texas roots. Prints, a rarity, emerged as subtle aspen leaf and striation motifs, inspired by the landscape. “I’m not someone who designs to a theme,” Maxwell confessed, “but in nature there are fires, there are droughts, there’s rain, and ultimately it lives on and becomes more beautiful. I came back lighter.”
This newfound lightness manifested in Maxwell’s embrace of knitwear and soft constructions. A day dress mimicked a draped shawl, while evening saw a sleeveless knit polo dress with a swinging hem, held together by a pyrite clasp. Softness, in Maxwell’s hands, wasn’t synonymous with simplicity. The opening gown, for instance, started “very tight,” but ripped seams at the shoulders and waist liberated it, revealing its layered complexity.
Maxwell’s creative directorship at Walmart undeniably influences his designs. This collection bridged the gap between his high-end runway creations and his all-American sportswear roots. The updated bestselling belt with Texas-inspired hardware served as a playful reminder of this duality.
Read more: Jason Wu Collection Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Brandon Maxwell
