“No business, no ties, but soft, formally informal tailoring for young men”, Norbert Stumpfl said of the new seasonal offering from the Brioni house, where he has been creative director since November 2018.
His Spring/Summer 2023 collection is a new foray into Roman nonchalance, by the sea, on the shore of a lake, in the wonderful rose gardens or in the century-old garden of a castle, far, far away from the urban hustle and bustle.
The new Brioni man’s wardrobe is effortless, suggesting a relaxed manner with formality. Almost everything, from casual suits and trench coats to sport jackets and military jackets, is made of sumptuous fabrics previously reserved for women’s formal wear. For example: pajama sets are made of silk knitwear; a trench coat is made of leather satin; suits are soft and light because they have no lining; or evening tuxedos, made in precious silk jacquard woven on antique looms by Setificio Leuciano, an historic artisanal company which was purveyor to the Royal Palace of Caserta. When other pieces are equally elegant and comfortable as they are made in washed silk, seersucker or in the lightest wool and linen.
Rich, discreet, deep and vibrant, with shades of cognac brown, earth, yellow, blue, gray, black and white, complemented by accents of pink, orange and baby blue, the palette is directly inspired by Roman culture and nature.