Perched above the heart of Italy’s fashion capital, the Brioni Spring/Summer 2024 collection, orchestrated by Norbert Stumpfl, unfolds like a masterclass in sartorial sophistication. Milan’s cityscape acts as a fitting backdrop, its iconic low-rise charm contrasting sharply with the dizzying heights of the Torre Breda, where the display is ingeniously staged. It’s a collection that dares to push boundaries while retaining an assured elegance – it’s not just fashion, it’s a vision, it’s Brioni.
At an altitude usually reserved for birds and dreams, Stumpfl’s latest offering for Brioni induces a sartorial vertigo of the most delightful kind. This isn’t a fleeting fancy, but the result of a formula, meticulously fine-tuned over seasons, which finds its finest expression yet in this collection.
The ensemble is rooted firmly in tailoring, Stumpfl’s artistic forte, as exemplified by the silk cashmere peak-lapelled double-breasted jacket, a garment that defies convention with its long skirt and unstructured approach. This is not so much a rejection of the old but a celebration of the new, the next stage in Brioni‘s evolutionary tale.
Dressing down never looked so upscale, with a plethora of semi-casual yet purposefully luxe pieces. From a tan nubuck duster coat with a crocodile-lined collar to half-button shirting in a tantalizing silky blend, the ensemble is thoughtfully finished off with casually unfussy linen pants.
The recent arrival of Brioni’s womenswear is another cause for celebration. The silk trenches and sleeveless coats particularly, are set to leave their mark. Stumpfl admits, in his signature candid style, that these clothes need to be lived in to be truly appreciated. “The clothes look their worst as they are at the moment”, he shares, “…once you wear them in and they look a little bit washed and used, they’re going to acquire the imprint of your personality and look a lot cooler”.
This conviction is echoed by Stumpfl’s own anecdote about his beloved nubuck coat, which now sports a map of scratches courtesy of his poodle Lulu’s ecstatic welcome home rituals. The coat, like all of Stumpfl’s creations, has taken on a life of its own, becoming a tangible narrative of the wearer’s life and style.
The collection climaxes in a patch of meticulously manicured lawn, aptly the eveningwear section. The attention to detail is staggering, and the wow factor is undeniably present, albeit with a certain refined restraint. The black silk evening jacket adorned with a grid of tufted squares, each requiring two hours of handiwork by Brioni’s Abruzzo artisans, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to understated luxury. A feast for the discerning, these are not merely clothes but experiences, meant to be reveled in by those who wear them rather than those who merely watch.
Indeed, the Brioni Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a testament to Norbert Stumpfl’s inventive vision. This masterfully curated collection invites its wearers to engage with the clothes, live in them, and ultimately transform them into a reflection of their own unique personalities and stories. After all, at Brioni, fashion isn’t just about looking good, it’s about feeling it, living it and breathing it.
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