In a gloomy London Fashion Week, Riccardo Tisci’s show for Burberry was particularly anticipated. All the more so since this was the Italian designer’s first ever menswear collection since his appointment in 2018 as artistic director of the venerable English luxury house.
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The designer cleared out Burberry’s temporarily shut store on Regent Street, filled it with a multilayered wooden runway, and sent models walking up, down and around wearing his latest creations for Burberry.
For my first Burberry menswear-focused collection, I wanted to celebrate the freedom of expression. Enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outdoors and its beauty, fuelled by the thought of the creativity that comes when we are togetherRiccardo Tisci
Built on the back of Thomas Burberry’s ethos of exploration and adventure, his collection, dubbed ‘’Escapes’’, was an ode to early 20th Century pioneers, explorers of the countryside, dreamers of a new reality. ‘’I was not only drawn to the artistry of their craft, colors and shapes, but also to their strong sense of camaraderie and friendship’’, said Tisci of his inspiration.
The collection was toned in the woodsy shades of Burberry beige, bark brown, oxblood burgundy, and for good measure, city grey. Deftly layered pieces showed to the enduring sartorial ethos of the house, marrying trench to skirt, skirt to pipestem – all carried down the catwalk on sneakers and boots fashioned after cloven deer hooves in a nod to the Burberry animal kingdom.
Outerwear was key. Clothes were engineered to reflect motion and activity – with pleats, panels and military fringes – as if moving in the wind. Layered pieces morphed unexpectedly on the body. Tailoring had a sense of twisted classicism, whilst Burberry’s quintessential house codes – the trench coat and Burberry beige – were evolved.
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