Presented at the Étrier de Paris equestrian center, in the Bois de Boulogne, the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022 collection continued to explore the equestrian world, boldly combining santiags and long dresses.
The theme echoes the previous Haute Couture show in January, which Charlotte Casiraghi of the princely family of Monaco opened on horseback in a set designed by the same artist, Xavier Veilhan. “I have imagined the Fall/Winter 2022 Haute Couture show in the continuity of the previous show, leaving room for experimentation”, said artistic director Virginie Viard, in the show note.
Xavier Veilhan built a dreamy playground, complete with spinning pinwheel and baby pink marshmallow poufs. Inside the airy, loft-like room, a trippy video featuring Pharrell Williams playing a drum set, with grinding electronic music in the background.
“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance”, Virginie Viard said in a press release. “And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver”.
Several structuring elements of the collection – rounded shoulders, square silhouettes, geometric shapes, embroidered patterns, etc. – reinforce this 1930s aesthetic. – Several structural elements of the collection – rounded shoulders, square silhouettes, geometric shapes, embroidered patterns, etc. – reinforce the aesthetic of the 1930s, while the embroidery with geometric patterns recalls the Art Deco aesthetic that the late Karl Lagerfeld so loved.
Suits and long dresses mimicking Mademoiselle Chanel‘s vision for the house in that decade were updated with strong shoulders and defined pleats.
Viard accessorized some looks with pieces from the brand’s latest high jewelry collection, a tribute to the ‘’Diamond Jewels’’ collection created by the founder in 1932. Viard chose to use necklaces as “celestial elements because they fit the pleats” to complement the pleats and large, wide-brimmed men’s hats and capelines.
Virginie Viard also chose to incorporate equestrian-inspired footwear such as cowboy boots (paired with draped long skirts) and T-strap pumps.