Onto the journey, we embarked into the chiaroscuro universe of Charles de Vilmorin. This year, Vilmorin emerged from the ashes of a difficult departure from Rochas, channeling his emotional turmoil into a collection that is both starkly contrasting and fiercely compelling. Charles de Vilmorin Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 acts as a testament to the tumultuous spirit of creation and the emotional valiance of the young designer.
The haute couture collection, steeped predominantly in monochrome hues, danced upon the edge of audacity with its interspersed splashes of de Vilmorin’s iconic artwork. These fragments of creative escapism punctuated the lineup, each piece telling a tale of introspection and self-discovery. As de Vilmorin candidly remarked, “This show is the story of the pressure of creation”, the sentiment weaves the very fabric of this collection.
To symbolize the genesis of artistic ideation, de Vilmorin opened the show with a diaphanous white dress, softly draped and exuding a sense of innocent intrigue. The garment, in its sheer simplicity, represented the blank canvas that so daunts and exhilarates every creator. It embodied the terrifying allure of the unknown and the dizzying potential for creation.
As the show progressed, this initial innocence gave way to darker, sharper silhouettes and forms. It was an aesthetic odyssey that mirrored the journey of creation, highlighting the perpetual questioning faced by the designer himself – whether to court the darkness and sharpness or to embrace the riot of colors and craziness.
In the midst of his journey, de Vilmorin didn’t merely restrict himself to a binary palette. Instead, he embraced the spectral vibrancy of colors, juxtaposing them with stark black and white ensembles. Draped propositions, prints, and saturated silks made a compelling case for this vibrant chaos within the serene monotony.
The Charles de Vilmorin Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 collection spoke volumes about the designer’s journey on an overwhelming stage he may have seemed underprepared for. However, de Vilmorin’s strength lies in his fluidity and his innate ability to transform pressure into a captivating couture collection. His vision promises immense potential, and with continued refinement and focus, the fashion industry may yet witness the blossoming of a creative force of nature.
As if forecasting his potential trajectory, French icon Inès de La Fressange graced the runway, making a triumphant exit in a black ensemble, an affirmation of the unrelenting applause echoing through the venue. This poignant moment, serving as a herald for de Vilmorin’s future, signaled the growth and evolution he is poised to undergo, from a fledgling designer to a sartorial virtuoso in the expansive world of fashion.
The Charles de Vilmorin Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 collection is not merely a presentation of fashion, but an intimate exploration of the dynamic between darkness and light, sharpness and color, pressure and creation. With each garment, de Vilmorin invites us to traverse the complex labyrinth of his creative psyche, beckoning us to indulge in the beauty and torment of his journey. It’s a testament to the young designer’s resilience in the face of adversity, and a bold statement of his artistic integrity and resolve. This collection is both a courageous rebirth and a bold step into the future, charting the way for Charles de Vilmorin’s undeniable ascent in fashion.
©Photo: Charles de Vilmorin / Dominique Maitre