Marking a decade at the helm of Coach, Stuart Vevers takes us on a journey through his personal archives for the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, reflecting on his time spent in New York and his efforts in making Coach the epitome of America’s house of leather. This special collection embodies Vevers’ memories of New York, with pieces inspired not by vintage photographs, but by his own recollections of the city that embraced him, the city where he started a family, and the city that fueled his passion for sustainability in a world grappling with climate change.
New York, a city that has inspired countless designers, once again plays muse, this time for Coach’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The iconic New York Public Library served as the backdrop for the show, attended by Vevers’ family, marking it as a particularly poignant moment for the British designer. This location not only represented a significant landmark in fashion but also symbolized the city where Vevers met his husband, started a family, and dedicated himself to shaping the legacy of Coach as “America’s House of Leather.”
Vevers’ commitment to sustainability and climate change has been a pivotal aspect of his collections, incorporating upcycled leather and denim, regenerated cotton, and leather. This dedication made the appearance of an anti-leather protester at the show somewhat ironic, though Vevers noted he respected all perspectives.
While reflecting on his journey, Vevers was determined not to replicate the past but to build upon the foundation he had established over the years. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcased a series of experiments on construction and silhouette, starting with a black slip dress crafted from pieced-together leather with exposed stitches, accompanied by moto boots and a rounded bowling bag. Vevers explained that there was no archival reference for the bag; it was purely a representation of what he believed a Coach bag should embody.
A hallmark of Vevers’ tenure at Coach has been his fascination with oversized leather jackets. This collection featured a single-breasted blazer worn over a mesh turtleneck and pointy jelly flats, a chic ensemble indeed. Fringed suede jackets and upcycled denim jackets with let-out hems as trim details on pockets were also part of the collection.
Although Coach is synonymous with leather, the highlight of the evening was the introduction of soft suiting made from cotton or wool, overused, washed, and subtly “aged” to perfection. A mossy green suit with an oversized, slouchy jacket paired with a matching slim maxi skirt was a notable piece, signifying the continuation of a silhouette Vevers explored in the previous season.
Vevers wanted the pieces to evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of his younger days dancing at the Pyramid club or dining at his favorite steakhouse, Donohue’s, which he described as full of characters and seemingly unchanged since the 1960s. This sentiment was captured in a series of t-shirts, short-sleeve sweatshirts, and sweatpants adorned with the Donohue’s logo, contrasting humorously with the distinctly collegiate vibe of the attire.
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