Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2024 - Paris Fashion Week Men’s

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Rei Kawakubo hasn’t hung up her tailor’s tools at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, and the men’s collection is all the richer for it. This Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “Spiritual World,” transcends mere fashion – it offers a sanctuary of calm amidst the storm of our times.

Forget rigid suits and predictable silhouettes. Kawakubo’s jackets are anything but ordinary. Imagine buttery wools that cling to the torso, then dramatically curve away at the waist, creating a sculptural silhouette unlike anything you’ve seen before. And if you’re looking for a white shirt that’s both dazzling and original, look no further. Kawakubo’s masterpieces, some with longer tails in the back, are unparalleled works of art ready to take your wardrobe to new heights.

The Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2024 collection unfolds like a serene poem, each chapter a whisper of color and texture. Soft butter yellows give way to stark black and white, then morph into the comforting embrace of navy and finally into the quiet elegance of gray flannel. A burst of sunshine arrives in the form of lattice-like yellow knits and playful white trousers adorned with ruffled frills, but the heart of the show lies in the jackets. Paired with voluminous shorts or knife-pleated trousers, they become the focal point, each a testament to Kawakubo’s mastery of fabric.

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Black socks and brogues with protruding insoles add a touch of whimsy, while chunky Air Max TL2.5 sneakers, part of Comme des Garçons‘ ongoing collaboration with Nike, inject a dose of contemporary cool. But the real star of the show is the tailoring. In recent years, Kawakubo has made it her mission to explore the endless possibilities of shaping the male form. She cinches waists with ingenious precision, creates rough portholes on roomy jackets, and adds snug bands of fabric to hug the lower back. Some jackets even have a fin of fabric protruding from the front, as if stapled shut with unwavering determination.

There’s a fleeting moment of inside-out rebellion, with voluminous linings peeking out of tightly buttoned jackets, adding a touch of playful subversion. The atmosphere is one of serene contemplation, a stark contrast to the introspective chic that dominates the European season. Kawakubo’s touch is gentle, offering comfort and beauty in the face of a world that can often feel chaotic and unpredictable.

She doesn’t need words to explain her vision. “Spiritual world,” she proclaims, adding, “white is symbolic of prayer.” Interpret that as you will. But if you crave the most adventurous jackets and captivating white shirts in Paris, you might want to say a silent prayer for a flat stomach and a stain-resistant wardrobe.