Courrèges stands out as a beacon of innovation and sensuality, particularly in its Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall 2024. This line is a testament to the brand’s ability to combine timeless elegance with provocative modernity, a skill honed by Creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Deeply influenced by the social and political climate, his approach seeks to inject human connection and touch into his designs.
Di Felice’s work is characterized by a unique blend of open sexuality and minimalist design. This duality is evident in the strategic placement of pockets just above the pubis in the Courrèges Pre-Fall, a bold move that encapsulates his vision. The collection draws inspiration from a variety of sources, including the homoerotic undertones of the classic Fassbinder film Querelle. Echoing the film’s protagonist, the Belgian designer introduces a wide-legged sailor pant silhouette in line with current fashion trends.
The interplay between the provocative and the practical is a hallmark of Di Felice’s style. References to Courrèges’ 1960s space-age aesthetic are reinterpreted through modern fetishes and underground cultures. The collection features balaclava-like hoods and signature black vinyl, strategically slashed and zippered to suggest a mix of allure and mystery.
Moving into the specifics of the Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall 2024, Di Felice masterfully crafts a narrative that explores the public expressions of private desires. The collection is an eclectic mix of archetypes – from the kinky bourgeois to the wayward sailor to the post-punk leather enthusiast. Each piece speaks to the duality of precision and subversion. Key elements such as the Prince of Wales suit coat, open slit sleeves and jetted pockets below the navel demonstrate a daring take on practicality while maintaining an organically unisex approach.
The collection’s narrative unfolds through details that encourage a tactile experience, from convertible jersey tanks to the innovative use of materials such as corn-based latex. These elements, along with the reimagined Holy Bag, available in a variety of sizes and finishes, add depth and versatility to the collection. The designs invite an exploration of the senses with deep plunging necklines, fur-lined windbreakers and knitted balaclavas borrowed from the house’s 1960s archives.