Simon Holloway, Dunhill‘s new Creative director, made a triumphant debut at London Fashion Week, turning heads with his Fall/Winter 2024 collection showcased in the opulent Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery. His vision seamlessly blended the heritage of the historic venue with a contemporary menswear sensibility, resulting in a collection that was both timeless and distinctly relevant.
Holloway’s approach was one of quiet confidence. He eschewed stuffy tweeds and traditional cuts, opting instead for a lighter touch. Collars were relaxed, bow ties loosened, and even cummerbunds received a modern update. Yet, the craftsmanship remained impeccable, showcasing dunhill’s mastery of tailoring across ready-to-wear, made-to-measure, and bespoke pieces.
“This is timeless luxury,” Holloway declared, emphasizing the use of “great British cloth, pattern, texture and color” to tell the story of exquisite British tailoring and outerwear. Toffee-colored leather car coats, flawless suede jackets layered with fine knits, and high-waisted navy trousers exemplified this philosophy. The collection exuded a quiet elegance, with details like crest-emblazoned loafers and hidden sneakers adding a touch of playful modernity.
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The presentation itself mirrored the collection’s spirit. Guests sipped Gibson martinis amidst red and green tablecloths reminiscent of a chic Parisian café, enjoying cucumber sandwiches and smoked salmon on soda bread. This relaxed atmosphere underscored the fact that Holloway’s Dunhill is not about nostalgia, but about creating timeless pieces for the modern man.
“There are menswear enthusiasts here, some of whom may know Dunhill from the past,” Holloway acknowledged. “But I do think there’s a younger audience obsessed with tailoring and proper menswear haberdashery – it’s a lovely thing to be able to connect with them here, too.”
And connect he did. By honoring Dunhill’s heritage while injecting a contemporary spirit, Holloway has crafted a collection that resonates with men of all ages who appreciate quality, craftsmanship, and a touch of understated luxury. As Holloway himself puts it, “We have a very strong and loyal clientele internationally,” and this collection is sure to win over a new generation of discerning gentlemen.
So, is it all uphill for Dunhill? Based on this impressive debut, it seems Holloway has the vision and talent to take the brand to new heights. With its focus on timeless luxury and modern tailoring, Dunhill’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a must-see for any man who appreciates classic style with a contemporary edge.
Read more: Simon Holloway: The new Creative director of Dunhill
©Photo: Dunhill
