As Dunhill celebrates its 130th anniversary in more than six months now, creative director Mark Weston is taking the London-based house in a new direction to stay abreast of today’s man preoccupations.
His solution? Create “fluid, comfortable clothes that are made to be lived-in. I didn’t want anything to feel too precious”, he said. Before continuing, “the idea was taking special fabrics to make the collection feel lighter than ever”.
So, lightness and elegance are the keys in this collection presented digitally, and with a video shot on the roof of the Woolwich Arsenal, a military structure which is a mix of 19th-century brown brick and huge contemporary glass windows.
The fabrics are definitely fluid, like the Umbrella coat, inspired by a Dunhill archival piece, transformed here with ultra-light, water-resistant and creaseless kimono-sleeves, which opened the collection. Other pieces are in ultra-thin leather, worn over lightweight silk t-shirts and knits while patterns remain almost absent, except for the stripes that add a sporty touch to the ensemble.
The color palette remains urban and neutral, with a range of gray, black, white and stone tones.