Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2023 collection debuted in Florence, seamlessly blending the brand’s rich history with a contemporary twist under the creative direction of Camille Miceli. This unique collection pays tribute to the brand’s founder and infuses elements of the ’60s Space-Age vibe.
Camille Miceli chose the breathtaking backdrop of Florence, home to Emilio Pucci, for her first fashion show for the brand. Miceli’s captivating collection draws inspiration from an intriguing, lesser-known aspect of Pucci’s history – Emilio Pucci’s design of the Apollo 15 emblem in 1971. The collection features motifs reminiscent of the ’60s Space-Age, with laminated printed silk twill, gold foil crackled iridescence, and silver-treated ripstop fabrics.
The Spring/Summer 2023 collection focuses on the theme of air, with flowing, lightweight designs that evoke a sense of freedom and movement. Miceli stated, “It looks like the model could fly away“, emphasizing the importance of lightness in the silk and chiffon dresses that fluttered in the breezy spring evening. The show commenced with a model gracefully gliding down the Arno River in a small boat, wearing a feather-light caftan embellished with Pucci’s iconic Pesce motif.
Miceli’s decision to present the collection in its entirety during a traditional fashion show was a departure from her previous experiential events in Capri and Saint Moritz. However, she maintains that she does not want to be “stuck in a format“, leaving the future open to possibilities.
Miceli’s designs pay homage to Emilio Pucci while simultaneously reflecting her own playful and joyful personality. She dubbed the collection E.P., stating that the founder’s initials are enough to convey his lasting influence. The collection features all-white looks and emphasizes Pucci’s artisanal techniques, which serve as a precursor to the iconic prints associated with the brand.
Sustainability was also a consideration, with the signature Marmo print appearing on denim that has been laser-treated and washed with reused water. Miceli’s designs extend beyond the beach and the slopes, aiming to appeal to a trans-generational customer base for everyday life. She firmly believes in the see-now, buy-now format, explaining that “people zap from one thing to the other, forgetting easily“.
The Spring/Summer 2023 collection’s finale showcased eight print catsuits adorned with gold jewelry and chains, a nod to Miceli’s past experience as a jewelry and accessories designer. Accessories in the collection were fun yet functional, from the printed bucket bags to the Puccinella straw bag with playful bikini detail.
Camille Miceli has garnered a community of friends and supporters, including Sidney Toledano, head of the LVMH Fashion Group. Toledano praised Miceli’s talent, stating, “She loves the story of Pucci and she pays homage to him but with the eyes of today. The key when you have a name like that is not only to pay homage otherwise you do a museum; it’s a talent. You can’t just be modern, you need to be talking to the future, and this is in the right direction“.
Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2023 collection masterfully fuses the brand’s heritage with contemporary design, capturing the essence of the founder’s vision while propelling the brand into the future.