A lone black lighthouse stood sentinel against a slate-grey catwalk, casting long shadows as Loredana Berte’s “Il Mare D’inverno” filled the Teatro. The evocative lyrics – “I dive, perplexed, into moments I have already experienced” – perfectly set the stage for the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a masterful blend of vintage Armani with a contemporary twist.
Tailored jackets echoed the broad shoulders and cropped skirts that defined Armani‘s transatlantic crossing in the 1980s, but felt fresh and modern. Wide-legged trousers, precisely structured with pleats, swished down the runway, replacing the skinny silhouettes of recent seasons.
The nautical theme was subtle, eschewing Breton stripes for the elegance of dark navy wool and chambray separates. Styled with casual ease, these evoked the spectrum of a ship’s crew, from the engine room hands to the captain himself. Then came a wave of guests dressed in flowing, tonal browns and beiges, their tailoring as relaxed as a gentle sea breeze.
But the collection wasn’t all about the sea. A familiar skiwear interlude showcased Emporio Armani‘s enduring versatility, before a dramatic shift to black and charcoal. Here, crystal embellishments resembling barnacles and coral shimmered on final pieces, while heavy, drapable leather jackets felt like a second skin. The finale was a vision of midnight blue, with double-faced outerwear and trousers sparkling like moonlight on water.
Do you use Google News? You can follow your favorite media. Follow Fashionotography on Google News, by RSS or on Flipboard.
“I have never hidden my love for the sea,” Mr. Armani shared in a pre-show note. “This season, I reflected on the Atlantic crossing and the ships that have braved it. It is a way for me to explore the spirit of Emporio, with an emphasis on the fluid transition between masculine and feminine. Something natural to me yet always radical.”
And radical it was. This Emporio Armani was a high-water mark, a testament to the enduring power of Mr Armani’s vision. As he emerged from the shadows to take his bow at the foot of the lighthouse, one thing was clear: Emporio Armani’s voyage of timeless elegance is far from over.
Read more: Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Joaillerie collection unveiled in stunning new line
©Photo: Emporio Armani
