For his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the second collection after the launch of his men’s line last November, Erdem Moralıoğlu looked to the world of British painter and planter Cedric Morris, who spent his spare time breeding irises, for inspiration. Morris’ 16th century home in Benton End, Suffolk, England, where the artist lived alongside his longtime partner Arthur Lee-Haines (Lett) from 1939 until his death, served as the setting for the collection’s lookbook and video.
The collection aimed to capture the shared world of Morris and Lett, through Morris’ color palette of portraits and still life arrangements injected into each piece.
For example, vine embroidery and floral motifs grew delicately on gabardine suits or mohair sweaters, while bunches of white, yellow, and purple wildflowers bloomed on cabana-style suits and swimsuits.
Men’s fashion from the 1940s was reinvented with a casual aesthetic. High-waisted pants took on a wider shape, shirts had more rounded edges while suits used white corduroy and unlined linen to create a lightweight silhouette, all ready for the warm weather.