Etro‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, presented by Marco de Vincenzo, unfolded like a theatrical performance, complete with oversized masks reminiscent of ancient Greek tragedies. This captivating presentation hinted at the designer’s introspective exploration of his role at the helm of the heritage brand.
de Vincenzo, navigating the “constant struggle” between honoring Etro’s legacy and injecting his own vision, aptly titled the collection “Act.” The show venue, bathed in dramatic darkness, served as a stage for the models, who marched past the imposing masks with a sense of confident swagger.
The collection itself embodied this duality. While retaining Etro’s signature rich textiles and bohemian flair, de Vincenzo introduced a surprising element: oversized tailoring and even a touch of black, a departure from the brand’s usual vibrant palette. This juxtaposition reflected de Vincenzo’s desire to offer a broader spectrum of Etro, catering to both those who crave bold statements and those who prefer a more subdued elegance.
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Experimentation with textures and embellishments took center stage. Paisley motifs were rendered in luxurious gold foil on mannish tailoring, while chiffon was transformed into cascading ruffles that adorned wispy gowns and sheer pants. Quirky knitwear, a trend on the Milan Fashion Week runway, featured scarf-like details adorning overcoats, sleeves, and even a unique pencil skirt.
As the show progressed, the mood shifted towards a more introspective tone. The vibrant prints transitioned onto bodysuits and leggings, a collaboration with Wolford, offering a more subtle way to embrace the Etro aesthetic. This shift seemed to suggest the versatility of the collection, catering to diverse personalities and preferences.
Read more: Etro to launch first menswear line and adopt coed format for next show at Milan Fashion Week
©Photo: Etro
