Entitled “Traveling in a Joyful State of Grace”, Kean Etro’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection – the house was one of the three brands to be physically paraded this season in Milan – was a vibrant tribute to his friend, the Italian musician, artist and performer Franco Battiato, who died last month. Nicknamed Il Maestro, Franco Battiato was the first pop singer to perform, in 1989, in the presence of a pope, in this case John Paul II.
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In front of a masked audience, some freshly-arrived menswear pilgrims from the US, the first on this side for many months, models walked in a ballet of colors on the train tracks in the open air of the Milan’s former railway station Scalo Farini, with “L’Era del Cinghiale Bianco”, one of the Sicilian’s greatest hits, on the background.
Blurring the boundaries of genders, silhouettes were relaxed and fluid, multiplying the references to globetrotting – always an inspiration for the designer : caftans, knitted vests with silk georgette inserts, trench coats worn over long johns, sleeveless tennis-inspired sweaters, but also very desirable travel bags and fil coupé shirts lit up by golden threads.
Colors were bright and summery (yellow, green, orange, celadon), alternating with neutral hues (beige, black, brown and white).
To further convey the idea of wanderlust, the designer also referred to cult writer Bruce Chatwin, known for his travelogues, and Agatha Christie, notably with nods to the Middle East and to India.
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