Forget ruffles and romance, Fendi Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 is a sleek, silver spaceship blasting off into the future. Drawing inspiration from both Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy and his own sci-fi leanings, artistic director Kim Jones has created a collection that’s equal parts avant-garde and eminently wearable. Think streamlined silhouettes, shimmering embellishments and a dash of optical illusion magic, all designed to empower the modern woman without drowning her in extravagance.
Jones didn’t just pay homage to Lagerfeld‘s futurism, he reinterpreted it for today’s sophisticated clientele. Gone are the voluminous capes and dramatic draping, replaced by a minimalist elegance that whispers luxury rather than screams it. The opening and closing looks? Identical “box dresses,” one in simple black silk gauze, the other a dazzling sheath of silver bugle beads. The message is clear: confidence comes in all shades, but a quiet strength always shines through.
But while the cuts are pared-back, the details are anything but. Jones masterfully plays with textures and techniques. Shaggy “tinsel” dresses dance with the light, while trompe l’oeil embroidery mimics the sumptuousness of fur without its ethical baggage. For awards season sirens, there are “shapes on shapes” dresses – sleek columns layered with abstract beadwork that create an optical illusion, a clever distraction for red carpet jitters.
And let’s not forget the accessories. Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi add their magic touch with micro-mini Baguette bags, perfect for a touch of playful sparkle, and those futuristic Thelios sunglasses – more fine jewelry than eyewear, and priced as such at a cool 30,000 euros.
But Jones never loses sight of wearability. He consults his chic muses, from actresses like Zendaya to the Fendi family itself, to make sure his couture creations translate from the runway to reality. These are clothes for women who demand attention without having to scream for it.
While some may find the surface simplicity of Fendi’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 underwhelming on screen, a closer look reveals meticulous craftsmanship and luxurious fabrics. From the ribbed Vicuna dresses to the supple crocodile pieces, each garment whispers understated opulence.
This is couture for the modern woman who values quiet confidence over ostentatious display. It’s a celebration of clean lines, shimmering textures and subtle optical illusions, all woven together with a thread of futuristic glamour. As Jones herself says, “There’s a lot of loud couture. I like a wearable, quiet couture, which is what we’re selling a lot of.” And with Fendi’s 100th anniversary on the horizon, one can only imagine what Jones and his talented team will dream up next.