“This is bullshit.” Sabato de Sarno’s opening salvo at his Gucci menswear debut wasn’t about the clothes – it was about the chatter. Critics who dismissed his September collection as mere commerce got an eyeful, and an earful, as de Sarno doubled down on his vision for the house, daring them to see elegance in the seemingly simple.
Forget fleeting Instagram moments; this was a masterclass in details. Laptop pockets tucked discreetly into backpacks, grosgrain key loops adding a touch of whimsy, bonded-leather linings whispering luxury against the skin. de Sarno, a self-proclaimed “outerwear geek,” reveled in sculpted coats with flowing vents, their double-faced leathers rippling like liquid with every stride. An iridescent faux-fur topcoat shimmered like moonlight on water, while a sleek caban whispered timeless sophistication.
Sabato de Sarno is no aloof maestro. “I don’t love the idea of fashion,” he declared, “I love fashion.” He’s hands-on, a sculptor of fabrics and a whisperer to customers. This is a working creative director, relishing the nitty-gritty, and it shows.
Milan, for de Sarno, is a canvas for exploring identity. Silk chokers tamed rebellious scarves, crystal collars challenged convention, and heavy metal necklaces chimed with subversive swagger. Lucky Love’s “Masculinity” thrummed from the Mark Ronson soundtrack, its lyric a question mark echoing through the sharp tailoring and deep creases of those one-and-a-half-breasted suits.
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Even the enlarged Jackie bags, with their extendable straps inspired by Beckett’s Italian wanderings, hinted at a deeper narrative. But de Sarno isn’t about grand pronouncements. “Italianity. Artisanal. Good taste. Beauty,” he offers, and that’s enough. These aren’t mere clothes; they’re conversations stitched in rich fabrics, whispers of luxury echoing in the hushed black box.
Forget “blah blah blah.” de Sarno’s Fall/Winter 2024 is a symphony of quiet elegance, a love letter to craftsmanship and the subtle power of a perfectly made coat. It’s a challenge to look closer, to find the poetry in the details, and to discover that sometimes, the most profound statements are made without a single word.
©Photo: Gucci
