Stepping into the new season, we encounter a reimagining of the commonplace, a vibrant rework of familiar silhouettes. This is where we find the thrilling essence of Hed Mayner Spring/Summer 2024 collection. What the designer fondly labels as “boring clothes” – the time-honored suit, the cotton shirt, the trusty jumper – undergo an almost alchemic transformation under his creative genius. We enter a world where fashion and familiarity engage in an innovative dance, resulting in pieces that challenge the ordinary while enveloping the wearer in comfort.
Comfort, Mayner notes, is at the heart of this collection. “There is something very strong in the way I work, towards things that often seem more dramatic, but this is about comfort. Normality”, he asserts. However, don’t mistake this for convention. The designer takes us on a sartorial journey that emphasizes the individuality of each garment through unexpected design techniques and the use of supple, tactile materials.
Hed Mayner’s unorthodox design process disassembles the structure of vintage apparel, twisting them inside out, reimagining them in unusual ways. His garments, much like architectural entities, oppose the body distinctively, resisting conventional proportions and contours. A sheer tracksuit exposes the architecture within, a long-sleeve top with concealed pockets lends itself to the contours of everyday objects, while jackets and shirts, fused together, create pieces that are as minimal as they are intricate.
This amalgamation of classic and reimagined designs is further defined by the use of supple British tailoring fabrics. The collection showcases an array of textures and tones – from light-toned gaberdine, crinkled Tyvek, sharkskin twill to dimpled seersucker, stripes, and a wool-mohair mix. It maintains a continued sense of familiarity, offering a tangible appeal with its dry-to-the-touch finish.
Moreover, the collection continues the designer’s pressed and shrunken tailoring, seen in the foil bonded suiting, reflecting a sculpture-like grandeur. The garments, with their voluminous fronts, encourage a new movement and shape. Wrinkled yet fresh, they craft a fresh silhouette through classics, turning “boring clothes” into a new sartorial adventure.
This season also marks the second season of Hed Mayner’s collaboration with Reebok, which has provided him with a new canvas – the BB 5600 sneaker from 1989 and the iconic shell suit. An additional partnership with Quoddy, a century-old hand-crafter of New England moccasins, results in the creation of pressed-slippers and suede ankle boots.
Hed Mayner Spring/Summer 2024 collection brings to life a beautiful paradox: the comfort of the familiar with the thrill of innovation. It isn’t just fashion; it’s an invitation to experience “boring clothes” in a new, exciting manner – to explore a world where normality itself becomes a piece of art.