Paris Fashion Week vibrated with a sporty spirit, and Hermès wasn’t immune. Véronique Nichanian, the House’s Artistic director, brought her signature playful touch to everything from sharp tailoring to evening wear, all under the banner of “dandy-chic” versatility. The result? A collection that’s both luxuriously timeless and refreshingly modern, perfect for the discerning gentleman on the go.
Nichanian’s playful spirit shines through in subtle yet striking ways. A deep black suit is given a touch of sparkle, transforming it from a boardroom staple to a cocktail hour charmer. English checks and herringbones, traditionally associated with tweed and the countryside, are paired with lightweight rubber, blurring the lines between city and country. Even argyle, the quintessential gentleman’s pattern, gets a playful makeover, stretched, pixelated and reimagined in unexpected shapes.
But Nichanian’s vision isn’t just about aesthetics. These are clothes for living, for layering, for adapting to the ever-changing demands of life. Rubberized coats with checkered wool linings are ready for brisk mornings, while hooded tops nestle comfortably under herringbone toppers. Fleece jackets, elevated with luxurious knit collars, offer surprising warmth and style. Cowl necks, turtlenecks and loose handkerchiefs replace the traditional tie for a sporty twist.
Color also plays an important role. While the core palette remains grounded in the wintry staples of gray, black, brown and olive, Nichanian throws in shots of chartreuse, citrine and aubergine, reflecting a trend seen throughout the season. A sporty chartreuse jacket, a herringbone coat with a hint of green, and those playfully distorted argyle patterns make this collection stand out from the crowd, a splash of unexpected vibrancy amidst the Paris drizzle.
But amid the playfulness, there’s an undercurrent of quiet strength. Nichanian offers one of the season’s slimmer tailoring silhouettes alongside Dolce & Gabbana, proving that narrow cuts can still hold their own in the face of looser trends. Classic outerwear gets subtle remixes, such as the addition of a rubberized panel to a caban for a touch of urban grit. A series of sharp pieces in blue-shot Prince of Wales check, including a hybrid calfskin jacket and a tapered-leg suit, exude understated elegance.
Leather plays a starring role, from the sleek, biker-inspired A-2 jacket to the long, belted coats that resemble the sophisticated older brother of a perfecto. Knitwear joins the party with mixed argyle patterns that whisper menswear anarchy. Even tailoring gets a rebellious touch with the seemingly misaligned waistband on a pair of suit trousers worn under a silver silk evening shirt with an asymmetrical collar.
Accessories complete the collection with meticulous flair. Crocodile belts and boots add a touch of reptilian luxury, while amulet-like silver necklaces and a patterned deerskin snood add a bohemian touch. Cashmere beanies and gummed canvas bucket hats add warmth and practicality, while equestrian-print canvas bags edged in leather and the coveted Haut à Courroies bags – the ultimate Hermès grail – come in three proprietary calfskin treatments, a testament to the brand’s rich heritage.