The heartbeat of fashion keeps pulsing, echoing the signature rhythm of the past while crafting a resplendent future. As the maestro of this beat, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE has once again demonstrated their prowess in merging fashion and art, with the unveiling of their Spring/Summer 2024 collection at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs. The show was a breathtaking tribute to the late Issey Miyake’s unique pleating technique, a trailblazing innovation that first dazzled the world in 1988.
Suspended above the runway audience were garments – pleated, oversized, and painted with neutral hues and zesty pastels. Their static, flat forms belied the transformative spectacle that was to unfold. As the rain-kissed guests filed in, a spool of pleated rice paper stretched the runway’s length, a testament to Issey Miyake‘s pioneering approach to fashion.
The transformation from paper to apparel occurred live on the runway. Clad in black cotton, Issey Miyake’s ensemble meticulously cut the rice paper, unveiling garments sandwiched between two layers. What followed was an entrancing dance of dressing the line of models emerging from the backstage.
One model, positioned right across, received a pleated pink t-shirt, a pleated headband and a stretchable shoulder bag. A metamorphosis was underfoot – raw rice paper transforming into fashion statements, right before the viewers’ eyes.
The collection, inspired by the vibrancy of the season, unveiled stunning pieces. Highlights included dramatically caped trenches in deep olive and vibrant orange, aptly named the “Wing Coat”. Their avant-garde aura resonated with the romanticism of the rainy Parisian weather outside.
There was an intriguing exploration of geometric forms in the lineup too. Rectangular garments with strategically placed armholes draped around the models’ bodies in an artful cascade of gradients, demonstrating a minimalist aesthetic. The footwear added an intriguing finish to the ensemble, with molded slip-on loafers that redefined runway style.
Issey Miyake’s collection also delved into the realm of patterns with side-zipped rompers, pants, and shifts, all ornamented with abstract mid-century prints. The show culminated in a captivating grand finale, with models twisting and twirling in an uninhibited celebration of Miyake’s unique fashion language.
As an homage to tradition, the last two models ended their runway journey with a graceful plié, encapsulating the essence of Issey Miyake’s innovative pleating technique. HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection reminded us of the fluidity, the magic, and the boundless potential of fashion when it crosses paths with the daring creativity of the human spirit.
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