Creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander’s latest collection in a new direction, veering away from the label’s typical minimalist style. The Meiers delved into their formative years in the 90s and 2000s and infused the collection with elements of urban attitude and couture accents. The result was a blending of sportswear and tailoring, natural and synthetic materials, and traditional and digital embellishments.
The Meiers imbued the collection with a personal touch, described as “quite personal“. They reflected on their design inspirations, including their memories from the late 90s and the cultural mixing and information sharing of the time. Luke Meier, who was in New York at the time, drew inspiration from Björk’s music, which was featured in the show’s soundtrack.
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection showcased sculptural leather pieces with embossed and padded details, exaggerated proportions, and graphic silhouettes. The designers gave traditional tailored pieces a modern twist with zippers to increase their volume and provide a sense of comfort. Lightweight technical fabrics were used in windbreakers, anoraks, and pants, adding to the utilitarian feel, while fuzzy sweaters with metallic accents and zebra prints offered a touch of couture.
The Meiers expressed their individuality through airy parachute dresses adorned with crushed metal flowers and tunics and tees digitally printed with fruit and bonbon designs. The bags were stamped with fruit motifs, like sweet tins, encouraging the wearer to embrace a sense of positivity. The show closed on a high note with a series of feminine dresses, including checkered bubble shapes and flowing silk dresses with floral motifs. A white cotton dress covered in crushed aluminum flower embroideries and sequins sparked feelings of optimism and marked a departure from Jil Sander’s typical minimalist aesthetic.