For Jil Sander‘s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, a transformation is evident. Lucie and Luke Meier, the creative dynamos behind the label, have projected a new perspective on the legacy brand that once resonated deeply with minimalism. But minimalism, it seems, has grown to encompass more than just a restrained aesthetic. It’s about making statements with subtlety and magnifying details that matter.
The collection’s strength lay not just in the use of fabric or the play of color, but profoundly in its structures and forms. Instead of settling for the ordinary two-piece suits, the Meiers envisioned jackets mirroring the rigidity of boxes, paired effortlessly with sailor-collar shirts and shorts. These elevated the silhouette, striking a perfect balance between structure and fluidity. In another deviation, men’s jackets hovered near the knees, accentuating the high waistbands of baggy shorts. The tailoring hinted at an evolved mindset, a more liberal, less restrained approach to design.
This collection was an exploration of duality. On one hand, you have the graphic and geometric elements – the boxy tailoring juxtaposed with flowing couture-like blouses and the liquid grace of satin dresses. On the other, there’s a dash of rebellious luxury: metal rings on vests, maxi sequins adorning tops, and the striking hint of punk with crystal piercing-like earrings.
The monochrome pieces of the collection found their distinctiveness not just in shape but also in intricate detailing. It’s hard to overlook the innovative metal discs on shirt collars that served as built-in jewelry or the remarkable portholes on vests. Furthermore, knitwear displayed an avant-garde spirit, deviating from corporate wear to something befitting a grand event. Two particular cotton dresses, distinguished by their generous volumes, seemed to whisper a secret: minimalism can be loud.
Even as they evolved the brand, the Meiers maintained a sense of timelessness. The eel skin textures, python prints on long coats, and unexpected animal prints gave a delightful visual punch to the lineup. Surprisingly, the women’s pieces shone the brightest. Take, for instance, the embroidered T-line blouse with its cape-like construction or the mesmerizing dress crafted from spiraled bands of lace.
Lucie and Luke Meier have successfully reimagined Jil Sander’s identity. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection tells a tale of transformation and timeless allure, echoing the brand’s minimalist roots while daringly venturing into the profound depths of creative design.
©Photo: Jil Sander