The dawn of the Pharrell Williams era at Louis Vuitton was heralded by a spectacular showcase as the sun set over the Seine. For his inaugural outing as Creative director of menswear at the global luxury titan, Williams crafted a momentous spectacle that marked his debut in the fashion world, unearthing his creative vision for the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
As evening fell, Paris’s oldest bridge was transformed into a stunning stage, its surface glowing with a vast gold Damier pattern – a clear indication of the collection’s key themes. In Williams’ own words, the chosen location was “a very clear demonstration of love and warmth, well-being and also welcomeness”. Echoing these sentiments was the soul-stirring performance by Voices of Fire, the gospel choir Williams had discovered through a 2020 Netflix series. This choir, handpicked by Williams, captivated the audience, as their voices bounced off the Seine and soared into the night.
It wasn’t merely the fashion connoisseurs who had descended on Paris to witness this monumental moment. A-list friends of Williams, including Beyoncé, newly announced Vuitton brand ambassador Zendaya, and Rihanna graced the evening with their presence. The spectacle proved an amalgamation of star power, culture, and innovative design that justified the frenzy preceding the season’s most eagerly awaited show.
Yet, despite the star-studded attendance and ostentatious setting, the main spectacle was indeed the clothes themselves. Williams had previously teased his collection at his music festival in Virginia Beach, with the LVers emblem making an appearance – an ingenious twist on the Virginia state slogan “Virginia Is for Lovers“.
The main narrative of the collection, however, was articulated through the pixelated Damier pattern, an artistic direction that Williams confidently referred to as the future of fashion. He partnered with the renowned U.S. pixel artist known as E.T. to create a digitized version of this pattern. Henry Taylor, another celebrated American artist, contributed to the collection with intricate micro-embroideries that graced items ranging from denim to accessories.
The Damier pattern was a significant feature of the collection, appearing on short suits, workwear jackets, a tapestry jacket, and even an oversized fur shawl. A variety of silhouettes were explored, featuring blinged-up suits with photo prints of the Pont Neuf, a luxe cream evening jacket and a robust coat with a monogram motif that would undoubtedly appeal to guests like Maluma.
In the realm of accessories, Williams was eager to leave his mark. His take on the iconic monogram Speedy bag, crafted from calf leather in primary colors, paid homage to the counterfeit versions available on New York City’s Canal Street. He also resurrected the metallic Monogram Miroir bags introduced by Marc Jacobs in the mid-2000s, showing his intention to breathe new life into existing treasures of the brand.
In the lead-up to his appointment, Williams had been aware of the mix of anticipation and skepticism. This, however, did not deter him. Instead, he emphasized his role as a pupil, promising to continue his journey of learning and sharing his discoveries with the world. As he put it, “If you see me and it looks like I’m floating, it’s them [his team] lifting me”.
His team did indeed lift him, and in return, Williams elevated Louis Vuitton. As he stepped out to acknowledge the standing ovation, he embodied the artistic innovation that defines Louis Vuitton, heralding an exciting new era for the luxury fashion brand.
Read more: Rihanna stars in Pharrell’s debut campaign for Louis Vuitton
