Ludovic de Saint Sernin‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection marks a pivotal moment in his journey, embodying a journey of self-discovery and bold expression. Set amidst the vibrant energy of New York City, de Saint Sernin’s debut not only captivated a star-studded audience, but also launched a groundbreaking collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. This partnership highlights the seamless fusion of art and fashion, and showcases de Saint Sernin’s unparalleled ability to tell a story of eroticism and elegance through his designs.
The collection’s narrative is deeply rooted in de Saint Sernin’s personal and artistic connection to Mapplethorpe’s work. From the innocence of hand-cut velvet flowers adorning sheer organza t-shirts to the daring display of leather bondage straps and front-lacing pants, each piece serves as a testament to the designer’s journey from youthful purity to a complex understanding of sexuality and identity. The meticulous incorporation of Mapplethorpe’s iconic floral photography and controversial depictions of the New York S&M scene into the fabric of the collection underscores de Saint Sernin’s commitment to pushing boundaries and challenging conventional notions of gender fluidity in fashion.
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The progression of the show mirrors the designer’s own exploration of identity, beginning with the innocence and purity of floral designs and evolving into a daring celebration of sexuality and nightlife. de Saint Sernin’s homage to Mapplethorpe goes beyond mere aesthetic appreciation, embodying the photographer’s audacity to share his fantasies with the world. This courage resonates deeply with de Saint Sernin, whose collection invites us to embrace every facet of ourselves and to dare to fully embody our identities.
The fusion of Mapplethorpe’s work with de Saint Sernin’s design philosophy brings a refreshing perspective to the runway. By moving away from traditional prints and instead bringing to life the characters and themes of Mapplethorpe’s photographs, de Saint Sernin introduces a new generation to the artist’s legacy. The collection serves as a bridge between past and present, reinterpreting Mapplethorpe’s daring spirit in a contemporary fashion context.
As Ludovic de Saint Sernin took his final walk down the runway, the applause that followed was not only in admiration of the collection, but in recognition of a greater victory for freedom and self-expression. At a time when these values are increasingly under threat, Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection stands as a beacon of hope and a reminder of the transformative power of fashion. It is a celebration of individuality that dares us to explore and express the myriad dimensions of our identities.
Read more: Khaite Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Ludovic de Saint Sernin
