Designer Martine Rose showcased her Fall/Winter 2023 collection at the Pitti Uomo fashion trade fair in Florence, paying tribute to the city and its culture while incorporating elements of British subcultures.
The show was held in the Mercato Nuovo, a 16th-century loggia that was once a hub for silk and luxury goods traders during the Renaissance.
Rose, known for her manipulation of silhouettes and influence on oversized, distressed, and vintage-inspired men’s fashion, used locals and London-based models, including Calcio Fiorentino football players, in her show.
The collection featured subtle details that modernized thrift shop-style clothing and played with proportions to highlight the male physique. Inspiration was drawn from various subcultures, including ’90s punk, older men, and suburban dads trying to be trendy, and included references to London techno ravers and women’s fashion as well.
Overall, the collection was praised for its familiar, “very Martine” style and for seamlessly blending Italian and British subcultures. It was considered Rose’s most successful show to date.