The arrival of Adrian Appiolaza as Moschino’s new Creative director marks a fresh chapter for the iconic Italian fashion house. Stepping into the role just weeks after the passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne, Appiolaza’s debut collection at Milan Fashion Week paid homage to the brand’s heritage while infusing it with his own distinct vision.
Appiolaza, known for his experience at Loewe, Chloé, and Miu Miu, presented a lineup that celebrated the playful wit of Moschino founder Franco Moschino. Playful slogans emblazoned on t-shirts, trompe-l’œil prints, and the brand’s signature question marks, peace signs, polka dots, and pearls all made an appearance. This wasn’t just a nostalgic trip down memory lane, however. Appiolaza skillfully reinterpreted these elements for a contemporary audience, creating a collection that felt both familiar and refreshingly new.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was its emphasis on wearability. Gone were the over-the-top, theatrical pieces that became synonymous with Moschino under Jeremy Scott. Instead, Appiolaza offered a range of versatile garments, from chic tailoring to playful knits, that felt both playful and sophisticated.
“The idea was to play with real archetypes of ready-to-wear, creating characters,” Appiolaza explained backstage. This was evident in pieces like the satin, belt-backed tailoring reminiscent of Prada and the black vests adorned with dangling garter clips – nods to Moschino’s signature theatricality while remaining grounded in everyday wear.
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Appiolaza’s personal connection to the brand was also evident in the collection. A collector of Moschino himself, he drew inspiration from his own wardrobe, particularly his love for the brand’s shirts and waistcoats. This personal touch lent a sense of authenticity and warmth to the collection.
While the collection paid tribute to Moschino’s past, it also hinted at an exciting future for the brand under Appiolaza’s leadership. With his focus on wearability, wit, and a touch of theatricality, Appiolaza seems poised to usher in a new era for Moschino, one that celebrates the brand’s legacy while remaining relevant and appealing to a contemporary audience.
Read more: Adrian Appiolaza, Moschino’s new Creative director
©Photo: Moschino
