As Britain slips into a long period of lockdown and travel has been severely restricted for some time, it was difficult for Paul Smith to find inspirations, as he almost always finds his inspirations in travel.
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‘’I designed what popped into my head, and it’s very British. It’s the classics, reworked’’, said the designer. And this fascinating glimpse of the fashion house archives coincided with his brand’s jubilee celebrated last year.
This led him to take a fresh look at the half-century spent in the service of British fashion.
The result was a decidedly nostalgic score, at the crossroads of subcultures that have strongly influenced him throughout his long career, from the mod movement to neo-romantics, including grunge, preppy and skinheads. However, these influences subtly punctuated the pieces, associated with polished and sophisticated touches. The proposals were very wide, including Harrington jackets, long pea coats, 4-button suits, shearlings luscious, overcoats, knit with a high or crew neck, aviator-style jackets, shirts …, all in an earthy color palette.
Floral prints were the stars of this collection. They were evident on ties, casual shirts and coats, alongside the tartan print and checks which are iconic and timeless patterns of the men’s wardrobe.
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- D la Repubblica February 24th, 2024 cover by Paolo Roversi