Peter Do‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “Áo Dài,” presented a deeply personal and poetic exploration of heritage and transformation. Unveiled in a Parisian gallery, the showcase offered a stark contrast to the designer’s recent, more protective collection for Helmut Lang. Here, Do embraced a softer, more fluid aesthetic, drawing inspiration from his Vietnamese roots and the memory of his late grandmother.
“I wanted to dedicate a collection to my late grandma,” Do shared, reflecting on the inspiration behind the pieces. The áo dài, Vietnam’s national garment, became a central element, reinterpreted in a variety of forms. Matching dresses over pants, crafted in striking black and ivory velvet devoré, echoed the traditional silhouette while incorporating Do’s signature multi-layered approach.
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This sense of fluidity permeated the entire collection. Barely buttoned shirts were layered over knotted skirts and pants, while convertible slipdresses offered multiple wearing options. Oversized suiting, a mainstay in Do’s work, featured innovative details such as split sleeves and unexpected materials like knitted gray fabric.
Evening wear took center stage with floor-length jacquard knit dresses and retro-inspired black gowns, some adorned with brushstroke motifs reflecting Do’s artistic pursuits. “I paint when I’m stressed,” he confessed, explaining the origin of the captivating patterns.
Despite juggling multiple design roles, Do’s creative vision remained undimmed. He expressed mixed emotions about his brief return to Vietnam, yet a sense of grounding seemed to flow into the collection. The focus shifted from the technical tailoring he’s known for, embracing ease and drape with a touch of nostalgic sentiment.
“Right now I’m not trying to make PD the next billion-dollar brand,” Do concluded, highlighting his desire to retain creative control and a personal connection to his label. This collection stands as a testament to that mission, offering a deeply personal ode to heritage with a touch of artistic transformation.
Read more: Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Peter Do
