Rick Owens, fashion’s prince of darkness, returned to his show space at the Palais de Tokyo with a new collection bathed in smoke emerging from small portable machines held by the models to diffuse his new fragrance imagined in collaboration with the skincare brand Aesop.
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In this smoky decor, silhouettes followed one another like spectral and superhuman forms. Down jackets, faded denim dresses and huge woolen capes dragged on the ground, sleeves were ultra long, alpaca felt rigid jackets and skirts, shoulders rose towards the sky while down jackets in recycled nylon composed impressive protuberances around the bodies. To these imposing ensembles, Owens opposes sequin dresses and bustiers whose voluminous drapes accentuated both the movement and the shine of the material.
There was also a plethora of strong outerwear like “Theda Bara” parkas with goat fur trim that looked like commercial hits in the making.
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