Chitose Abe’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear and Pre-Fall-2024 womenswear collection for Sacai was a joyful explosion of color, texture, and unexpected silhouettes, all united by a message of love and togetherness. Inspired by the concept of “uni-form,” Abe explored the idea of uniforms not as restrictive garments, but as blank canvases for self-expression and connection. The result was a runway spectacle that was both playful and thought-provoking, a testament to Abe’s masterful ability to deconstruct and reimagine fashion staples.
From the start, the collection was an ode to volume and proportion. Coats and jackets boasted sleeves as grand as those of Renaissance royalty, while sleeveless sweater vests morphed into elongated dresses. Chunky corduroy jackets in jewel tones added a touch of playful luxury, while puffer panels puffed out from the backs of tweed jackets to resemble oversized airplane pillows.
A collaboration with artist Mark Gonzales brought a touch of streetwise cool to the collection. Badges with messages like “One Love” and “The Good Vibes Tribe” adorned bomber jackets and bubble-shaped bombers, adding a dose of positivity and rebellion. Gonzales himself, beaming in a patchwork jacket of his own, declared himself “proud” of the collection, a sentiment no doubt shared by the audience.
Abe’s masterful use of color was another highlight. Bold monochrome looks, such as a bright yellow ribbed knit dress with puffy sleeves, stood out against a backdrop of playful contrasts. A white zipper-front coat dotted with Gonzales badges was edged with a bright purple fur trim, creating a striking visual juxtaposition.
The traditional naval uniform got a Sacai makeover, with double-breasted greatcoats featuring the signature rounded sleeves. A navy duffel coat with frogging pushed to the side exuded a charmingly off-kilter vibe, proving that even the most formal of garments can be reimagined with a touch of Sacai’s playful irreverence.
Abe’s playful spirit extended to even the most unexpected pieces. A pajama suit with the same giant sleeves made one wonder how wide beds and door frames would have to be to accommodate Sacai’s fresh ideas. It was a humorous nod to the collection’s overall theme of pushing boundaries and embracing the unexpected.
In her post-show reflections, Abe spoke of her desire to convey a message of love and unity, a sentiment that resonated throughout the collection. The “One Love” t-shirts, the collaborative Gonzales patches, and the playful deconstruction of traditional garments all spoke to a desire to break down barriers and celebrate our shared humanity.