Chitose Abe, the mastermind behind Sacai, isn’t known for following trends. Instead, she consistently pushes boundaries by deconstructing and reconstructing garments into her signature hybrid pieces. This approach was on full display at her Fall/Winter 2024 collection, where Abe reimagined the very notion of a dress through playful and innovative combinations.
The collection wasn’t just about dresses, though. It was a celebration of dressing up, a sentiment Abe openly expressed backstage. But her interpretation of “dressing up” was far from conventional. We saw classic pieces like parkas, army sweaters, and suit jackets cleverly spliced with traditionally feminine elements like A-line shapes, ruffled hems, and sheer panels. This unexpected mix created a new kind of chic, one that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine.
Abe’s playful spirit truly shone in her deconstructed blazers. Some were bisected and rebuilt with unexpected details like drop collars or sleeves hanging from transparent tulle. Others resembled cropped over-layers thrown on nonchalantly for a layered effect. This innovative approach to tailoring resulted in pieces that felt fresh and modern, while still retaining the unique Sacai DNA.
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But the most talked-about aspect of the collection was undoubtedly the “pantaboots.” These thigh-high boots, meticulously disguised as tuxedo trouser legs, stood on their own, creating an illusion of a full garment. This fusion of footwear and clothing pushed the boundaries of fashion and showcased Abe’s remarkable ability to challenge conventions.
Read more: Sacai Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Sacai
