Anthony Vaccarello closed out Paris Fashion Week with a stunning Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection that paid homage to the house’s founder while offering a distinctly modern perspective.
The show stood in stark contrast to the sheer-heavy womenswear collection presented just a week earlier. Here, Vaccarello championed the return of the suit, crafting languid, double-breasted styles in luxurious fabrics like georgette and satin. This “flou,” a historical haute couture technique for achieving fluidity, echoed Yves Saint Laurent’s own mastery of tailoring.
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Vaccarello described the collection as “more formal, more classic, more masculine,” a shift from previous seasons. Yet, his signature touch remained. The color palette, with mauves, tans, and chocolates, subtly mirrored the women’s collection, while still incorporating traditional menswear staples like gray flannels and chalk stripes.
The collection brimmed with references to Yves Saint Laurent himself. Spectacled models with high, squared-off shoulders and flared trousers channeled his 1970s style. Boxier suits with high collars and sober ties evoked his later years. The grand floral arch under which models emerged further echoed the ambiance of Saint Laurent’s couture shows.
Vaccarello also drew inspiration from American icons. The sleek, coiffed hair evoked Patrick Bateman’s obsessive preening in “American Psycho,” while the impeccable suiting hinted at Julian Kay’s style in “American Gigolo.” This subtle touch of darkness added intrigue to the collection’s overall elegance.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2024 was a masterful display of classic tailoring reinterpreted with a modern, fluid sensibility. Vaccarello’s clever nods to the house’s heritage and his playful use of cinematic references solidified his position as a leading force in menswear.
Read more: Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week
©Photo: Saint Laurent
