Away from the traditional fashion week calendars, Saint Laurent and its creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, set sail for Venice’s La Certosa island, outside the official Paris calendar, to unveil the house’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection.
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In the show notes, Vaccarello described the collection as “a fantasy on a Victorian dark romance” whose story was told inside a large-scale installation faceted with large mirrors and various forms of plant life created for the occasion by artist Doug Aitken.
“Green Lens”, as Doug Aitken’s work is called, strives to spark a dialogue about the connection between the natural landscape with our future. “Green Lens is a living artwork. It is both an artwork, installation, and stage. It’s like a lighthouse, that one can journey to and have a very personal experience, while it also transmits light, ideas, and questions. A focal point that allows all of us to share our ideas and visions for the future post-COVID…a celebration and inquiry into the future”, Aitken said in a statement.
“The idea of the structure is about the desire to look at the future without forgetting the past and the history and the same is for the collection, which is mixing past and present and projecting it into the future”, Vaccarello said in his notes.
Airy, romantic but resolutely rock, the Saint Laurent men’s wardrobe for next season shined the light on references to Saint Laurent’s glorious past, where the retro elements were counterbalanced by the almost futuristic vibe of the Doug Aitken’s installation.
The range delved between Yves Saint Laurent’s early ‘80s black and white evening suits, romantic ruffled collars, tall vaporous blouses worn with tight-fitting pants, fitted black brocade suits, and dramatic flowing silk capes matched with skinny pants.
Androgynous, the collection blurred the boundaries between feminine and masculine, as did the lines between everyday pieces and occasion outfits.
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