Chiara Ferragni, Laverne Cox, Olivier Rousteing, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Thebe Magugu, Kanye West and his new flame Julia Fox, all came at the sun-bathed Petit Palais, where Daniel Roseberry unveiled his Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 collection, titled “An Age of Discipline”, for Schiaparelli.
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In the refreshingly straightforward show notes, Roseberry explained how he started conceiving the collection last April during that “brief period of hope” when we all thought COVID would soon be behind us. When that turned out not to be the case, he felt loss and exhaustion.
Thus, the collection reflected the world’s emotional journey over the past year.
Elemental colors and ethereal silhouettes dominated the collection. Roseberry deemed bold colors and loud silhouettes inappropriate due to the era or unease and loss humanity was living in. Bright shades and bold volume felt hollow and exhausting.
“All of the tricks that couture designers (including me) use to communicate grandeur and craftsmanship – big silhouettes, glorious poufs of fabric, huge volume – felt hollow”, he wrote. “Instead, I wanted to see if we could achieve the same kind of drama and otherworldliness without relying on those tropes”.
Instead, Roseberry sought drama in discipline, with sharp silhouettes and a toned-down palette of black, ecru and gold (a shade of gold specially formulated for the house that took multiple seasons to perfect). No other colors were present.
As for the silhouettes, Roseberry was inspired by the empyreal. For him, the heavens “are a place to escape from the chaos of our planet, but also the home of a mythical high priestess”.
The relative simplicity of the expertly tailored clothes – sophisticated-yet-daring dresses and jackets in black and white – let these pieces shine, but without falling all the way into the background. The resulting collection was the stuff of show-stopping, red-carpet dreams.
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