Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2024 - New York Fashion Week

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Thom Browne, the American fashion king of theatrical storytelling, returned to New York Fashion Week with a bang, closing the event in spectacular style. This time, his muse wasn’t a fairytale prince but Edgar Allan Poe’s melancholic masterpiece, “The Raven.” The result? A Fall/Winter 2024 collection that was equal parts gothic drama and sartorial brilliance, with a surprising emphasis on everyday wearability.

The runway transformed into a snowy wonderland dominated by a giant Thom Browne puffer-coated tree, with models animating its branches. Behind it, a lit window with a broken pane served as a portal for the collection’s protagonists to emerge. This eerie atmosphere reflected the poem’s themes of loss and despair, further amplified by the dramatic narration of actress Carrie Coon.

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While “The Raven” inspired visual details like intarsia’d birds on coats and raven-shaped headpieces, Browne’s interpretation ventured beyond the poem’s literal meaning. Insects, reminiscent of Kafka’s “Metamorphosis,” and elegant roses, possibly a nod to Poe’s mysterious admirer, “The Poe Toaster,” added fascinating layers of symbolism.

However, the biggest surprise was the focus on wearability. Beneath the theatrical flourishes lay investment pieces women could effortlessly integrate into their wardrobes. Tailored tuxedo ensembles, elegant overcoats, and versatile shirting offered timeless luxury, while punk-infused tweed jackets and twisted peacoats catered to bolder tastes.

For those seeking showpieces, Browne delivered. The gold-leaf cocoon coat, stripped to reveal a pannier overskirt and statement knitwear, was pure haute couture magic. Hourglass silhouettes layered upon caged underpinnings channeled Rei Kawakubo‘s avant-garde spirit, while pencil skirts bound by multiple belts hinted at a playful touch of bondage.